Helen Seamons, menswear fashion editor, choose the key collections from Paris menswear spring/summer 2015/16 week. This must have list contains from souvenir jackets at Valentino and Louis Vuiton to a hybird print mash-up with Paradise Garage influences at Sacai and a confetti storm at Sain Laurent.
The first essential collection from Paris menswear fashion week is Sacai.
Sacai’s stunning collection, titled Hybrid Mash-up, perfectly put-together layers of buffalo checks, traditional Peruvian blanket designs shown as shorts, military jackets, tuxedo-shirt ruffles reimagined as necklaces all sat together in perfect harmony.
The bohemian Californian surf spirit with a taste of Kurt Cobain Saint Laurent collection, created by Hedi Silmane, was all about top halves which meand skinny jeans showcased colourful couture embellished blazers, silky souvenir jackets and reworked vintage pieces.
For Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2016 collection, Kim Jones presented souvenir jackets and silk foulard scarves. Set to be the piece for the next season, the souvenir jacket was first produced around the Yokosuka Air Force Base following the Second World War. Snap up a vintage one now before the high street spawns a hundred imitations.
Riccardo Tisci continued with the masculine skirt theme from autumn/winter, this time in a classic navy pleat that looked tough and modern. The men’s version of Naomi’s sparkly pinstripe (this time complete with trousers) went down very well with Primal Scream frontman Bobby Gillespie seated front row.
For the Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2016 collection, Kris Van Assche created the incredible set of raised beds of real white roses dissected by walkways of parquet flooring that filled the Tennis Club show venue, made doubly impressive by the huge tilted mirror at the end of the runway reflecting the whole spectacle. The white-rose motif continued in an embroidery design seen on shirts and bomber jackets which contrasted the camo print, zips, parkas and utility references in the rest of the collection.