Victoria Beckham at New York Fashion Week

The Beckham clan – David, Brooklyn, Romeo, Cruz and Harper – sat beside Anna Wintour for the presentation of the designer’s coolest collection yet.

David Beckham sits next to US Vogue editor Anna Wintour (in green) with his daughter, three-year-old Harper, on his lap during a presentation of Victoria Beckham’s autumn/winter 2015 collection during New York fashion week.

Fashion-Design-Weeks-Victoria-Beckham-at-New-York-Fashion-Week Fashion-Design-Weeks-Victoria-Beckham-at-New-York-Fashion-WeekLast season, Victoria Beckham found her in very foreign territory, the boxy shapes of her masculine, military-influenced jackets didn’t necessarily feel true to the VB brand. So she went back to the beginning for Fall ’15. Said Beckham, “We started with dresses; we listened to what people said.”

Beckham pays attention, and along the way her own sensibility has shifted and become more sophisticated. Her new dresses reclaim some of the sexy ground she lost, but they do it in new-to-her, more avant-garde ways.

Fashion-Design-Weeks-Victoria-Beckham-at-New-York-Fashion-WeekFashion-Design-Weeks-Victoria-Beckham-at-New-York-Fashion-WeekTake the opening number, a clingy knit with a pair of big buttons below a deep V-neck and an evocative gather of fabric hitched to one hip. It just about wiggled. If the show had organizing principles, they were draping and asymmetry.

Fashion-Design-Weeks-Victoria-Beckham-at-New-York-Fashion-WeekRibbed chenille tops twisted around the torso, and skirts wrapped and knotted like a corduroy sarong at the waist. A sleeveless mock turtleneck dress was pieced together from swatches of chenille, silk, and plissé like a three-dimensional puzzle.

The other part of the story was outerwear, but where the dresses and separates were about accentuating the body, the coats were more about armoring it.

Some came with stand-up collars and exaggerated storm flaps that buttoned in back; others had sculptural, pannier-like shapes at the hips.



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